MENUS-PLAISIRS -- LES TROISGROS Review: Frederick Wiseman's Four-Hour Glimpse Into a Family Restaurant

Veteran director Frederick Wiseman, aged 93 and renowned for his distinct fly-on-the-wall documentary style, turns his lens to the Troisgros family restaurant in his latest work.

This French culinary landmark has maintained its prestigious three Michelin stars for over five decades. Known for his immersive approach in direct cinema, Wiseman's Menus-Plaisirs - Les Troisgros marks his 50th documentary, presenting four hours of meticulous observation within the realm of haute cuisine. Wiseman's half-century career is reflected in this film's detailed portrayal of the renowned establishment's daily operations

The Troisgros family, embodying the essence of French cuisine, has navigated the evolving culinary landscape with a blend of innovation and respect for tradition. Frederick Wiseman's documentary captures the present-day stewardship by César Troisgros while hinting at the dynasty's journey from its humble beginnings in 1930 under Jean-Baptiste and Marie Troisgros.

Adhering to his signature approach, Wiseman forgoes conventional documentary elements like interviews, narration, or a structured story arc. This method allows the authentic essence of the Troisgros family and their culinary artistry to emerge naturally, providing viewers with an unembellished glimpse into their world.

The focus of Wiseman's Menus-Plaisirs - Les Troisgros is the Troisgros family, particularly patriarch Michel and his sons, César and Leo. This documentary extends beyond the culinary aspects to explore family dynamics within the renowned gastronomic institution.

The film begins unassumingly at a local market, capturing the meticulous selection of herbs and vegetables by the Troisgros sons. Their commitment to using locally sourced, farm-to-table approach reflects the family restaurant's dedication to both quality and sustainability.

The core of Wiseman's documentary unfolds in the kitchen of the Troisgros restaurant, portrayed as a culinary workshop where dishes are meticulously crafted until they reach perfection. With unrestricted access, Wiseman's unobtrusive camera captures the detailed process of meal preparation, from thoughtful deliberations and the transfer of culinary knowledge to moments of spontaneous creativity. This behind-the-scenes perspective offers an insightful glimpse into the pursuit of excellence in both presentation and flavor.

The Troisgros family offers an unfiltered view into their Michelin-starred kitchen, providing insights that could serve as practical tips for culinary enthusiasts aiming to enhance their cooking skills and recipes. Wiseman's exploration reveals the intricate management of the kitchen, captivating even those viewers who may not typically engage with the detailed aspects of high-end cuisine.

Contrasting with the more dramatic portrayals seen in popular culture, such as Bear or Boiling Point, the Troisgros kitchen operates with less tension and more collaborative discussions and guidance. Despite this, Wiseman skillfully captures moments of intensity and the team's efforts to perfect both ingredients and dishes.

The director Frederick Wiseman extends his gaze beyond the kitchen, seamlessly transitioning to the front of the house. He observes and captures the intricate workings of the restaurant staff as they manage orders, and educates patrons about the establishment's exquisite selection of wines and cheeses.

This documentary offers a comprehensive view, spanning from the kitchen to the front of the house and even to local suppliers, providing a holistic perspective on the operations of a three-star Michelin restaurant. Wiseman's approach illustrates the interconnected nature of each component in maintaining the esteemed status of the Troisgros establishment.

Wiseman's nuanced examination of the Troisgros family business reveals the dynamics and challenges faced by head chef Michel and his son César, with Leo operating a separate culinary venture nearby. Wiseman, who also took on the editing of the film, strikes a thoughtful balance between the behind-the-scenes activity in the kitchen and the interactions in the front of the house.

The documentary subtly brings to light moments of unintentional humor, whether through the staff's presentation of an extensive cheese selection or the clientele's experience — affluent patrons sampling dishes starting at +500€ and savoring rare wines priced in the five-figure range. These scenes offer a glimpse into the high-end dining experience at the Troisgros establishment, highlighting both its sophistication and the occasional lighter moments.

Wiseman's documentary style is fundamentally humanistic, focusing on observation without the intent to humiliate. Pattern emerges in the documentary that, during screenings, has elicited laughter, resembling a caricature of snobbery or elitism. Tis is not the central theme of the documentary, however.

Wiseman does not seek to ridicule the patrons of the Troisgros restaurant. Instead, some scenes, particularly those capturing guests employing the swirl-sniff-sip technique in wine tasting, are portrayed with a degree of exaggeration, offering moments of light-heartedness amidst the more serious demonstrations of culinary expertise. This nuanced portrayal adds depth to the documentary, balancing the seriousness of haute cuisine with the occasional amusing intricacies of fine dining etiquette.

Menus-Plaisirs - Les Troisgros, while showcasing the artistry of culinary creations, also delves into the business aspects of running a high-end restaurant. The director captures the planning, organization, and management facets, including considerations of cash flow and decisions such as whether to purchase a 15,000€ bottle of wine during the coronavirus pandemic.

The documentary also offers a compelling view of on-the-fly decision-making. It reveals how various challenges in daily operations are addressed, providing a fascinating look at the resolution of issues in near real-time. Audiences gain insight into the thought processes behind these decisions and their outcomes, adding a layer of depth to the understanding of the complexities involved in managing a renowned culinary establishment.

Wiseman presents an insightful and comprehensive observation in his latest documentary that extends beyond the exquisite culinary creations to encompass the multifaceted operation of a prestigious restaurant. His focus is not limited to the artistic aspects of the dishes but includes a thorough exploration of the intricate workings involved in running such an esteemed establishment.

Additionally, the director's skillful editing is noteworthy; he crafts the film in a way that, despite its four-hour duration, it remains engaging and fluid, much like the harmonious pairing of succulent tuna with sweet watermelon featured in the restaurant's menu. This seamless narrative flow enhances the viewing experience, making the documentary as enjoyable as the fine dining it portrays.

Reviewed in connection with the film's screening at the Ji.hlava International Documentary Film Festival. The documentary opens Wednesday, November 22, at Film Forum in New York.