DVD Reviews: BILL CUNNINGHAM and THE TENTS New York - Madman Celebrates Fashion
Madman recently released two fashion focused documentaries, both set in New York and both about the coveted world of high fashion, but both coming from completely different places.
Melbourne
International Film Festival (MIFF) gangbuster was the eponymous Bill Cunningham
New York, unpretentiously exploring the inner and outer layers of a complicated
man and his role in the turbulent scene. Direct to DVD is the shorter and
rambling The Tents, a polar opposite documentary that roughly uncovers the
beginnings of the tents in the park - a now yearly event as part of New York's
fashion week. Both pretty essential for fasionistas, read on for more details.
Bill
Cunningham New York begins with director Richard Press asking an interviewee to
say something about Bill. 'What do you want me to say?' is her reply and this
truly encapsulates who Bill Cunningham is - words are not sufficient enough to
understand him and so the documentary mainly observes him, humbly listening to
his bite sized nuggets and watching the bike riding, camera wielding artisan at
work. The upbeat vibes and energy of the documentary match the images of the
streets of New York and the offbeat nature of Bill. Vignettes of style clash
with personal opinion and his philosophy of fashion epitomizes the scene when
he started in the 1960's to today (he still shoots for The New York Times).
His
methodical approach, the way he deals with his co-workers, the utmost respect
he has for his subjects and the clothes they wear are all beautifully and
effortlessly captured by Press. Annie Wintour of Vogue states 'we all get
dressed for Bill' not that he would want that; Bill photographs beautiful
people in beautiful fashion. Status, celebrity, brand and wealth do not concern
him; his unbiased focus is only on beauty. The talking heads of his close
friends and photo'd subjects have nothing but nice things to say about him,
they recognize his unbridled passion and unrelenting obsession. He is old school himself, sporting the same
jacket and old style camera he lives his life on the fringe, barely getting by
or so it would seem, and he is beyond content with that. He is a trendsetter
and it is what he sees that defines this, his trained eye predicts and
criticizes unconsciously.
His
conceptual notions of fashion go beyond any fashionista's standard view - to him
it is armor for everyday life, but what about his own life? Press tries
multiple times to get Bill to discuss it candidly but he does not bite, in one
scene he half breaks-down when discussing relationships, he has apparently
never had one. As a handsome young man, brought up in a strict Christian family
he joins the army, upon his return he set up a hat shop that the celebrities at
the time adored. He has had a long life but the humble way he lives it is on
par with the Dalai Lama, casting aside all worldly possessions except what
people wear; fashion is his religion, his air.
Later he
attends balls and events, some in his honor and he is still working, still
capturing the beauty with quick snaps of stunning dresses and heels, of course
to him it is not work. Fashion week educates the eye, and every year it needs
re-educating he states. He attends an awards ceremony in France where he is
honored. He barely accepts the award shouting high praise for everyone else.
Bill
Cunningham is an amazing man, a true maverick and this stunning documentary
captures enough of his life and the beauty in fashion that even passing fans or
the fashion-unaware can wholly enjoy it.
Next is The
Tents, James Belzar's attempt to uncover the history of the New York Fashion
Week to mixed results. It a location-specific topic that is proliferated with
various talking heads, apparently big fashion icons that talk up the drama in initializing
the tents in the park of New York.
Although it
is a trade event the iconic nature of it has thousands simply stand outside its
doors awaiting a glimpse of the latest and greatest fashion. The Tents is an
industry-centric and in-depth but bias definition of the history of New York
fashion.
Using
snappy editing and a decent soundtrack the documentary alternates between
models striking a pose and some rich individuals lounge room and their
elongated two cents on what fashion means to them. At 76 minutes it is an
exhaustive affair when it shouldn't be. For quick snippets of beautiful people
in beautiful clothes the fashion channel on cable would be a better bet.
The Tents is
self-indulgent, vapid and shallow. It really does not have much to say and it
takes its time regardless. There is an almost four minute scene of people reacting
to Annie Wintour just turning up to the event and it's quite ludicrous
comparable to the honest and enlightening Bill Cunningham. The Tents is
recommended only for serious fans of fashion or for someone intimately familiar
with the New York fashion scene.
Both DVD's
are available now thanks to Madman Entertainment.